Introduction: A Night in Seoul’s Old City
Seoul is a city of contrasts. Within the walls of the ancient four gates (Sadaemun), neon-lit streets and traditional alleys exist side by side. After dark, these alleys come alive with the smell of grilled food, the sound of laughter spilling from small eateries, and the clinking of beer glasses.
On one such evening, I found myself in a small market tavern tucked into the heart of the city. The specialty of the house was something unmistakably Korean: 반건조 오징어 (ban-geonjo ojingeo, half-dried squid) grilled to perfection, served with a simple but addictive dipping sauce of mayonnaise, soy sauce, and chili flakes. Paired with a cold beer, it was a moment of pure harmony—a taste of Korea that foreigners rarely forget.
This guide is not just about a snack. It’s about culture, tradition, and the essence of Korean nightlife.
What is Ban-geonjo Ojingeo (반건조 오징어)?
To understand the magic of this dish, you need to know what “half-dried squid” means.
- Fresh squid: Tender and slightly chewy, often eaten as sashimi or grilled.
- Fully dried squid (진미채, 건오징어): Extremely chewy, popular as a long-lasting snack with beer or soju.
- Half-dried squid (반건조 오징어): The perfect middle ground. Moisture remains inside, so when grilled it is smoky on the outside but tender and juicy within.
The texture is unlike anything else—soft yet chewy, meaty yet light. And because it is grilled, the squid develops a smoky flavor that pairs beautifully with drinks.
How Koreans Eat Grilled Dried Squid
Korean food culture often revolves around anju (안주), dishes made specifically to accompany alcohol. While fried chicken is famous worldwide as part of the “chimaek” (chicken + beer) trend, grilled squid is a classic that Koreans have loved for generations.
The ritual is simple but deeply satisfying:
- Tear the grilled squid into strips.
- Dip it into a sauce of mayonnaise mixed with soy sauce and chili flakes.
- Take a bite, sip your beer, and let the smoky saltiness blend with the cold bitterness.
It’s communal, too. A plate of squid is placed in the middle of the table, everyone tears off pieces, and the conversation flows as easily as the drinks.
The Atmosphere of Seoul’s Markets
Eating dried squid is not just about taste—it’s about where you eat it.
- Gwangjang Market: Famous for its food alleys, Gwangjang also has vendors grilling squid late into the night. The sizzling sound and smoky aroma fill the narrow lanes.
- Euljiro Alleys: Known as “hip-jiro,” these alleys are filled with retro pubs where grilled squid is a favorite snack alongside beer and soju.
- Jongno Taverns: Traditional pubs in Jongno often serve squid with makgeolli (rice wine), a pairing loved by older generations.
The experience is sensory: the glow of neon lights reflecting on wet pavements, steam rising from grills, voices calling out orders, and the rhythmic tearing of squid.
The Flavor Profile
Why does this simple dish resonate so strongly with both Koreans and foreigners?
- Smokiness: Charcoal grilling adds depth.
- Texture: Chewy yet soft, satisfying to bite.
- Balance: Salty squid with creamy mayo and a touch of chili creates harmony.
- Pairing: Beer cleanses the saltiness, creating a cycle of endless bites and sips.
Foreigners often compare it to dried cuttlefish in Japan or tapas-style calamari in Spain, but the Korean version feels heartier and more communal.
A Cultural Symbol
In Korea, food is rarely just food. Grilled dried squid represents:
- Nostalgia: Many Koreans recall childhood memories of their parents grilling squid at home or buying it at festivals.
- Community: Shared plates are central to Korean dining; squid is easy to share.
- Practicality: It’s inexpensive, widely available, and pairs well with almost any drink.
Even today, in convenience stores across Seoul, you can find small packs of dried squid ready to be paired with beer. But eating it freshly grilled in a market alley is another level entirely.
Beyond Squid: Other Seafood Snacks
While squid is the star, Korean markets also offer a variety of seafood snacks that go well with beer:
- Grilled clams (조개구이): Cooked right on the shell with butter and garlic.
- Small dried fish (멸치, 황태): Lightly roasted and eaten with spicy sauce.
- Seafood pancakes (해물파전): Crispy, savory, and perfect with makgeolli.
Each of these foods reflects Korea’s long relationship with the sea and its love for turning the catch into social meals.
Where to Try It in Seoul
If you want to experience dried squid with beer like a local, here are the best spots:
- Gwangjang Market – Look for stalls grilling squid late at night. Pair it with makgeolli or beer.
- Euljiro Pojangmacha (Tented Bars) – Trendy yet nostalgic; order squid with draft beer.
- Jongno Traditional Taverns – Old-school pubs where older Koreans enjoy squid and rice wine.
- Noryangjin Fish Market – Not just for raw fish; the dried seafood section is worth exploring.
A Guide for Foreign Travelers
- How to Order: Say ojingeo gui juseyo (오징어 구이 주세요) – “Grilled squid, please.”
- Price Range: Around 10,000–20,000 KRW per plate in markets.
- Best Pairing: Beer for beginners, soju or makgeolli for adventurous drinkers.
- When to Go: Evenings are best, as the atmosphere is lively.
Personal Reflection
As I tore off a piece of squid and dipped it into the sauce, I thought about how simple foods often carry the deepest cultural meaning. This was not fine dining, but it was authentic. Surrounded by strangers who felt like friends, I realized that food is Korea’s universal language of connection.
Conclusion
Grilled dried squid with beer is more than a snack. It is a window into Seoul’s cultural soul, a bridge between tradition and modernity, and a must-try for anyone visiting the city. Whether in a bustling market or a quiet alley tavern, the experience offers flavors and memories that linger long after the last sip of beer.
So next time you’re in Seoul, skip the familiar fried chicken for a night and follow the smoky scent of grilling squid. With a cold beer in hand, you’ll discover why this humble dish is a cornerstone of Korean nightlife.
